Industry Grade Dress Form
Why choose PGM Brand?
It's one of the most recognizable brand in the industry, serving Fashion industry for more than 30 years, with quality built interior, and high density padding/felt/cushion especially made for pinning and draping. It's made to last a lifetime. It also comes with 3 year manufacturer warranty. PGM dress forms are used by thousands of Fashion designer across United States and Canada.
Should I buy a dress form with hip or flat hip?
This is really up to personal preferences. Traditional dress form comes with flat hip while PGM Industry 601 has natural buttock which allow designer to visually see how garment drape over hip.
What if my size fall between different sizes?
To better meet your design purpose, it's very important to select a correct size dress form!
Use the picture guide above and measurement explanation below to measure some of the key point and compare these measurements with your own measurement to select the ideal size!
1. Neck Base
To find the base of the neck, have the person tilt his or her head forward. You'll see a knobby bone in back, round the measure tape at this point to make full circle.
2. Neck Middle
At 1" above Neck Base, measure around.
From side neck point (where the neck meets shoulder) to shoulder point (the upper arm bone).
At backside of body, from one shoulder point to another shoulder point.
4" down from Back Neck Point, measuring from edge to edge (reference image).
1" down from Front Neck Point, measuring from edge to edge (reference image).
7. Bust Around Neck
Put the measuring tape at one bust point, around back neck to another bust point (apex).
Measuring full circle around bust points (apex) and back point (see image). Please note: back point location will be different depending on the body size.
9. Upper Bust
About 3" - 4" above Bust Point, measuring circle around back point ( see image). Please note: 3" -4", or more will be different depending on the body size.
10. Apex to Apex
Measuring from bust point to bust point.
At waist line, measuring from central line to princess line.
Measuring full circle around waist points.
4" down from waist point, measuring full circle. Please note: 4" or... will be different depending on the body size.
8" down from waist points, measuring full circle. Please note: 8" or..... will be different depending on the body size.
15. Total Crotch
From front waist point , go under to back waist point.
16. Max Thigh
1" down from crotch, measuring around.
17. Middle Thigh
Measuring around from the middle of Max Thigh and Knee.
Measuring around knee.
Measuring around calf.
Measuring around ankle.
Running vertically down the inside of the leg, measuring from crotch to the ankle.
Measuring vertically down from the outside of the leg, from waist line to ankle.
1. Prep your dress form.
Make sure the measurements are accurate. If you haven’t already, mark the center line of the dress form with tape. This will help you keep your draping even across the body. If you already have an idea of the lines of your garment, such as the shape of the neckline, you can add those with tape, as well. This helps keep your draping on track.
2. Work from a sketch or photograph.You should have a design idea in mind when you get to the dress form. A sketch or reference photograph will give you an idea of how you need to manipulate the fabric. Of course, you can also just play with the fabric and use its behavior as the basis of your design, but less experienced designers will be less frustrated when they have something to work off of.
3. Start with muslin.You might want to start with fitting muslin to avoid wasting good fabric, but keep in mind that different types and weights of fabric behave very differently when draped, so choose a muslin weight that is close to the weight of your fabric.
4. Create your foundation piece and pin it to your dress form.Most fabrics will require a foundation piece of some sort to support the weight of the fabric. You can skip this step if you’re working with a very sturdy fabric. If your main fabric is sheer, be sure to choose a fabric that’s close to your skin tone or one that matches the main fabric if you don’t want to see the foundation fabric when the garment is worn.
The foundation piece should be fitted to the dress form. (If you’ve constructed a bodice sloper based on your measurements, that’s an excellent place to start!) If you have a basic idea of the design details you want to include (such as a sweetheart neckline or off-the-shoulder sleeves), be sure the foundation piece reflects that, since it will make Step 5 much easier.
5. Start pinning!Make sure you have enough fabric to cover the area. You can always cut the extra off later. Draping is usually done in sections: front bodice, back bodice, front skirt, back skirt. Choose a spot where the folds are most prevalent and begin there. Your sketch or photograph will come in handy at this point.
Trial and error coupled with patience is the name of the game. If you find yourself getting frustrated, take a step back and walk away for a bit. Use chalk to mark any additional seam lines or darts.
6. Baste the fabric to the foundation piece.Once you’re satisfied with the draping, use a contrasting color thread to baste the fabric to the foundation piece (or to itself if you’re not using a foundation piece). Go slowly so you won’t miss any folds in the process. This will allow you to remove the pins without undoing all of your hard work.
7. Trim off any excess fabric and continue constructing your garment.The raw edges of your draping should be hidden in the seams. At this point, you can remove your basting stitches.